Last Saturday, April 27th, marked the fifth Kaimuki Culture Gallery Pop-Up event I’ve produced since last June. Producing the events always presents a variety of challenges, but my favorite hurdle to overcome this time was the process of designing the pupus (that’s hawaiian for appetizers for those not in the islands). The first four gallery pop-ups were catered by Salt Kitchen and Bar, just up the road from the the home of the Culture Gallery Pop-Up, The Black Cat Salon + Spa. Salt’s staff is awesome, and they’ve been incredibly supportive. They are very, very good at what they do… maybe even too good. The beginning of this year was award season for Salt, which was repeatedly recognized for it’s menu and cocktails.
Salt has always maintained a quiet allegiance to locally produced food. They don’t brag about it, but they know it’s important to source as much as they can from local farms. As I began to contemplate how to get food at the event as Salt focuses on their increased business, I decided to stick with the idea of using local foods as much as possible. Over the past 3 months I’ve been building alliances with several farmers, CSA groups, and personal chef’s. In the future, I will strive to bring together the products from the farm with trained chef’s to produce food that highlights the culinary possibilities of local foods. For this event though, I had to come up with the menu on my own.
Nick Milan is a friend that coordinates the various programs conducted at the Family and Education Training Center of Hawai’i (FETCH) on the University of Hawai’i, Manoa campus. The program runs a small farm plot and has extensive gardens around the energy efficient house where the program is headquartered. I asked Nick what he might have available for the Culture Gallery, and he kindly offered to donate ulu, or breadfruit. This got the ball rolling. Ulu is a large, tree-born fruit roughly the size of a large cantaloupe. It’s very starchy, and was the traditional staple of most of Polynesia. Ulu was brought to Hawai’i by Polynesian colonizers somewhere around 1600 years ago. The tree grows well here, just outside of the tropics, but in Hawai’i it fruits seasonally as opposed to year round in the rest of Polynesia (which explains the development of taro as the staple in Hawai’i).
I began looking at ulu recipes from around the world, and eventually settled on a caribbean concept of boiling the fruit, skinning it, then mashing it with onions, nutmeg, eggs and milk to produce a crude “dough”. I rolled the dough with flour and breadcrumbs into quarter inch sheets and used a cookie cutter to cut out two inch circles, then fried the concoction in coconut oil. The result was a crispy wafer that had little flavor. It needed something on top. My lady recently returned from Belize where she had a couple of opportunities to work in a kitchen with a local chef. She’d been raving about the black been puree’s, and I thought the idea would be a good mix. I cooked the beans down and blended them with garlic, onion, ginger, and orange juice, in the caribbean style. With a little salt and pepper, the puree was perfect for the basic flavor of the ulu. But I wanted more… I wanted spice.
Growing up in San Diego, I grew into a healthy respect for salsa’s and hot sauces. Most of my meals aren’t finished without some kind of chili sauce, and I wanted to create a compliment to the savory ulu crisps and black been puree. Again focusing on incorporating local ingredients, I went with a base of Pineapple and Papaya, and brought the heat with a couple seranos and a pair of habeneros. The resulting sauce was both spicy and fruity, and provided a counterpoint to the savory ulu and puree. I topped the mixture with a sprig of cilantro and a small square of avocado with a sliver of red bell pepper for color. Delicious!
This was the first time I’d ever cooked with ulu, and it won’t be the last. It’s a great staple that is both light and filling, and a single fruit provides enough food for 4-8 people. Check out the recipes for the ulu crisps, the black been puree, and the pineapple-papaya-chili sauce below.
Ulu Crisps:
1/2 breadfruit
1 tablespoon grated onion
1 tablespoon butter
1 pinch nutmeg
1 dash hot sauce
1/4 cup milk
1 egg
Breadcrumbs, for coating
salt and pepper, to taste
In a large pot, bring water to a boil. Add breadfruit and cook until fork tender, about 30 minutes. Once it is fork tender, peel and remove the skin and core the breadfruit. Mash it. Combine breadfruit with onions, butter, nutmeg and hot sauce. Whisk egg and milk. Add to breadfruit mix and stir to combine. Use a rolling pin, and a mixture of flour and breadcrumbs to make a 1/4 inch thick sheet. Cut into small shapes with a cookie cutter. Fry the ulu in a frying pan on medium heat with coconut oil.
Black Bean Puree
1 1/2 medium sweet onions, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped fine
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh grated gingerroot
1 teaspoon fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
4 1/2 cups drained cooked black beans or 3 (16 ounce) cans black beans
3/4 cup orange juice
salt & freshly ground black pepper
1 Sauté the onions and garlic in olive oil until barely soft.
2 Add the spices and sauté until very soft.
3 Stir in the beans and orange juice and sauté for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning.
4 Place entire mixture in a blender and blend at high speed until consistency is smooth.
Pineapple Papaya Chili Sauce
2 habanero chili peppers
2 serano peppers
1/4 pineapple, cored
3/4 papaya, seeded
1/2 large sweet onion
1/4 cup white vinegar
1/4 cups filtered water
1 teaspoon Hawaiian salt
1 full garlic heads
1 heaping tablspoon Hawaiian honey (or Honey Bee, what’s available)
Cooking: Remove the stems and place habaneros to the side in a separate bowl. Prepare all of the other ingredients placing them in a large stainless steel or glass cooking pot. Cook on medium heat (“5”) for about 15-30 minutes (stirring occasionally) until mixture looks almost cooked. Add the habaneros, and continue cooking on low to medium heat trying to not have the habaneros change color too much (about 5 to 10 minutes). Allow to cool on stovetop. Blend at high speed until consistency is smooth.